The History of Coffee, and a Ceremony

One of my favorite beverages that is important in Italy is coffee or il caffe. You can go to the bar and order an espresso, drink a frothy cappuccino in the morning, and savor the bold flavor and the boost of energy. In my Italian Cuisine class I even learned how to make espresso using Lavazza espresso and a Bialetti Moka pot. Something struck my mind while enjoying a little cup of espresso: how did coffee come to Italy and what is coffee’s history?

Coffee’s official birthplace is Ethiopia, discovered in the province  of Kaffa. Coffee beans and trees were growing everywhere in Kaffa, and it is believed that monks were chewing the coffee beans/berries for energy long before it’s brewing capabilities were discovered. Around 850 AD a shepard named Kaldi discovered his goats chewing on the little red coffee berries, and then the goats began to frolic and dance around, bleating with energy. Giving into peer pressure, Kaldi tried some of the little red coffee berries and found himself stimulated and energetic. He rushed to tell the monks of his discovery, but they claimed the berries were the work of the devil and threw them into the fireplace of their monastery. As the beans burned, the heavenly scent of them roasting filled the air, and the monks ordered they be extinguished and put into a vat of hot water to preserve them. Then the monks drank the water and used it as energy to get through their devotions. Thanks to Kaldi we have brewed coffee today.

Circling back to Italy, coffee would have gotten to Venice from Ethiopia in the 16th century and espresso was invented in 1884. Coffee hasn’t been in Italy for as long as I had assumed it was. Coffee was able to become such a cultural importance in Italy in such a short time, and I wanted to honor coffee by celebrating its roots. My family had told me about an amazing Ethiopian restaurant named Awaze, which is near our home in Cary. My father had mentioned that you can get coffee there in a cool pot and little cups to pour it into, he said it was like a party. I had to check it out!

On the menu at Awaze they give the backstory of what is called a coffee ceremony. When you order coffee in Ethiopia, there is a specific, artful process that goes into making it. The menu warned that this coffee ceremony is never rushed, and it takes time to perform it properly, and that time and patience is what makes the coffee so good. The coffee ceremony is a rebellion against the speed and laziness of the western lifestyle, which is symbolized by our keurig instant coffee makers. During the coffee ceremony our waitress brought us a plate that showed the three stages the beans go through. When the beans are first washed they are a green color, they turn dark brown when they are roasted, and then they are finally ground. The beans are roasted over an open flame, and the woman performing the coffee ceremony we ordered brought out the roasting beans so we could smell them. They sizzled and cracked in the pan, beginning to release their natural oils. She seemed so happy to share this scent with us, her smile was contagious as she presented each of us the roasting beans. The smell was like no coffee I had ever smelled before, it was rich and nutty smelling. After the excitement of the roasting beans, we were brought out a beautiful pot of coffee and little coffee cups to pour it into. There was an option to put sugar and milk into the coffee, but it didn’t need it. When I took my first sip of the coffee I knew it was one of the best things I had ever tasted. This coffee was so smooth, there was nothing bitter about it. For a moment I thought I was drinking liquid butter. The natural oils in the coffee alongside the subtle nutty flavor was magnificent, and we drank every last drop of the coffee.

The three stages of the coffee beans

It was an exciting experience to learn about the history of coffee, and to enjoy coffee the way that it is served in it’s birthplace, Ethiopia. I think the Italians would have made Kaldi and the monks proud by inventing espresso and honoring the delicious and energizing powers of coffee beans. I’m not sure if Kaldi would be too impressed by what the Americans have done to coffee. It was nice to celebrate coffee, and I feel grateful to have tasted a cup of coffee that I think came straight from heaven.

The beans roasting, in mid-action! I wish you could smell through your screen!
The cups and plate are beautiful, this was the best coffee I have ever had!

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